Taste a bold Trace of excellence at Austin’s newest fine-dining gem

Last Friday night, Shannon and I decided to check out one of Austin’s new fine-dining establishments, Trace, in the W Hotel downtown.  I’d never been inside the W before this night, and I was impressed by the modern, hip interior.  As we walked towards Trace, we passed through the lounge area, aptly named “The Living Room.”  There were lots of nooks and crannies for hanging out, and the place turns into a happening spot for drinks later on at night.

After being promptly seated for our 8:00 pm reservation, Shannon and I immediately noticed the enigmatic yet tasteful interior design.  For example, although all of the chairs were white, they were each designed differently, lending an artistic flare to the restaurant.

We soon discovered that Trace also has an ethical mission in terms of its food, as the menu declares:

• Trace is committed to creating an enriching and thoughtful culinary experience by fusing the vibrant, local personality with our commitment to integrity and socially responsible food. Our high-quality, conscious cuisine is prepared from locally foraged and sourced, sustainable ingredients — or obtained through national partners with well-known sustainable practices. We hope you’ll enjoy your meal, which can be confidently traced back to its natural origins.

And thus, the derivation of the name of the restaurant: the proprietors are suggesting that you can literally trace your food back to its source.  That’s a terrific concept in a socially-conscious and environment-friendly city like Austin.  The website even lists a “Forager” right along with their executives chefs.

Our gracious and well-informed server, Althea, introduced us to the menu, and we ordered glasses of the Domaine Chandon sparkling wine to start off the evening.  The bubbly was dry, crisp, and refreshing, which proved perfect for a warm spring tonight.  To complement the beverage, we ordered a dozen of the Pepper Grove oysters.  Hailing from Galveston Bay, these large raw oysters were scrumptious, as they were perfectly chilled with a firm yet tender texture at the center.  As a sauce, Trace offered its own Fireman’s 4 mignonette, which was made from the Real Ale beer that’s brewed in nearby Blanco.  Shannon and I agreed that these were some of the best oysters in the city.

For an appetizer, Shannon chose the spring salad, which consisted of mixed greens, cherry tomatoes, and several dollops of fresh goat cheese.  Accompanied by a tasty vinaigrette, Shannon thoroughly enjoyed this garden-friendly starter.

Meanwhile, I chose the chilled pea soup, which was drizzled with a chile sauce and bits of bacon.  It was a delectable soup, and I highly recommend it to anyone who dines at Trace.

By this point, we’d finished our sparkling wine, so it was time for another glass.  We selected the Van Duzer pinot noir, which had a velvety, smooth texture.  The flavors were well-balanced, with notes of cherry and a light pepper at the finish.  This pinot noir is very versatile, as it could complement either fish or meat dishes.

Speaking of entrees, Shannon opted for the “hunted” salmon, which was accompanied by a tasty red-oak lettuce that augmented the sharp flavor of the salmon.  Shannon chose to have it cooked medium-well, and while she thoroughly enjoyed it, she said that she would’ve had it cooked medium next time since she now knows that all of the food at Trace is fresh and local.

I also enjoyed my main course, which was the red snapper.  The tender fish was simply wonderful.  It sat atop a thin potato cake that tasted like a delicious McDonald’s hash brown.  A side of green flava beans also blended nicely with the overall flavors of the dish.

Finally, it was time for dessert.  We chose the “Drunken Donuts,” which consisted of five donut holes that were dipped in sugar and accompanied with three outstanding, alcoholic sauces (hence, “drunken”): vodka whipped cream, tequila-chile fudge, and bourbon dulce leche.  We couldn’t get enough of this dish, as we were dipping our fingers into the remnants of the sauces even after our donuts had disappeared into our bellies.  Who needs an after-dinner drink when you get a dessert like this?

Our meal at Trace was outstanding, and the fact that the restaurant has an ethical mission regarding its food enhanced the overall experience.  It’s definitely on my short list of the top restaurants in the city.  Shannon and I already discussed how we’re going to convince my parents to stay at the W and dine at Trace the next time they visit Austin, as the hotel-restaurant combo captures the hip Austin vibe while maintaining a supreme standard of customer satisfaction.

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