I just wanted to say hi and that I miss you, blogging.  I’ve been meaning to write it’s just, well, as soon as one blog-worthy idea or event happens, a new one comes. And then I’m behind. And then I’m not sure where to start. And then I’m telling myself just write anything, dammit! And then it becomes this well, thing. This colossal blockade thing buzzing in my brain. This thing were suddenly I can’t blog. Now it’s been too long. How do I get started again? And now the pressure. The barrier is causing massive build up and something’s going to blow. Unless… I slowly unlock the gate just a bit. A slow stream to refill the canyon of emptiness I’ve felt with no recent blog entries. So that is what this is. My little blog that could. That can. That can help me get over the hump, over the rainbow, through the woods, and back in action, gas on the pedal and full speed ahead.

(Written last Friday…)

Today began as a rather discomfited morning. I was working two part-time positions, and I recently decided to leave one position, as it just wasn’t the “right fit”. Deep down I knew this, but it took a long time to admit it to myself. (And even longer to admit it to my boss.) I could feel this uncomfortable churning, sloshing sensation concentrated in my belly – my body was communicating to me that I had to leave. So I somehow mustered up the courage to turn in my two week’s notice on Monday. She decided that today made the most sense to be my last day, so I arrived at 8am sharp, turned in my key, exchanged best wishes, and walked away.

Although I knew this position just couldn’t and wouldn’t work for me, I had continued to try out of stubbornness on my part but also because I felt so guilty. I really did and do care about the agency, the people there, and the meaningful services they provide. Yet, it just wasn’t for me and the direction I want to go. And I know this. But that messy, sticky guilt feeling couldn’t help but seep in to my mind, sneaking under the door I was trying to close.

So after I walked away, I took a breath, and suddenly a new sensation entered my body. And this one, I was happily shocked to welcome. Pride. I truly felt pride. Like proud. Of myself. Me! Although the guilt wasn’t and isn’t all gone, the feeling of pride inspired me to do some self-reflection as I drove home, which may of course also be because my car radio currently doesn’t work. As I did some deep sea fishin’ into my soul, I caught a big one as I realized that my autopilot-self would have stayed at the position for the sake of the other people who work there. I wouldn’t want to burden them and or have them feel badly about me leaving. But as I’ve been preaching at my other position as a counselor the value of listening to oneself and the importance of self-care, I guess I’ve begun to walk the walk, and not just talk the talk. And I’m proud of myself for that. Although life is largely based on our relationships and connections for support, ultimately I believe that each person is responsible for his or her own life and well-being. I only can truly find my own happiness and I only can truly take care of myself. And I did! I advocated for my own needs and happiness! I did it! I fought my own internal negative thoughts and changed my reality. And not to say that I could have found this courage without the support of my loved ones…but still, I have to give myself a little credit. And that feels nice.

And even though after I left the office my usual “default” would be to crawl into bed with that gooey guilty feeling, I decided to spend the last of my last paycheck from this job, and treat myself to a much needed massage at the fabulous and serene Austin Viva Day Spa. And despite that my mind kept creeping back to the morning as I lay naked on the massage table, I covered myself with gentle, kind thoughts and warmed my heart by redirecting my attention to the peaceful place I was so thankful to have found. And as if the day couldn’t even get better, my amazing boyfriend met me for lunch at this adorable Italian bistro, Cipollina, where we had a deliciously decadent oyster mushroom, butternut squash sandwich, spinach salad, and one the best cheese plates I’ve had around town. By this point in the day, my guilt had pretty much melted away, and the sun in me was shining! Even though the skies outside were gray, I felt really prideful, because I knew I had acted true. Did this day really happen???

So the moral of the story is, yes I am a little bit cash poorer, but I’m internally richer after tuning in, turning off the guilt impulse, and driving happily ever into the direction of bliss. Peace out, as I have a cupcake to devour.

To make a long story short, Paul the mechanic spoke a lot of gibberish about what was wrong with my car. The only part I really understood was that my discs were so messed up that they were bleeding brown rust onto the side of my white car.  I was surprised to see this brown “rust” because I’d never noticed it before.  Paul also said I’d need to get the rust power-washed off because it was so bad (more on this later).  In sum, Paul wanted to replace all the calipers, “rebuild” something or other in the rotors, and replace a bunch of stuff in my engine because there was more “bleeding” going on their.  He touched a lot of stuff and showed me the black crud on his finger.  That was supposed to be the proof, I guess.  I nodded my head in fake understanding, while my brain began making pessimistic cost estimates.  I was thinking, “Oh, shit, this is gonna cost a grand.”  Well, that was actually optimistic of me.  My ultimate quote: $2500!!!!!  “Holy crap,” I exclaimed, “That’s more than the value of my car.”  Paul recalculated the estimate without the engine overhaul, and it still came out to over $1000 to fix my brakes!

I ordered them to put my car back together because I was getting the hell out of there and calling my south Austin mechanic, Jose Salgado, to see if he does brakes.  They tried to get me to come back in for a “reduced” price (apparently, this is a negotiation), but any level of trust was completely gone and I had no interest in continuing the conversation.  After calling Jose to verify that he could fix my brake system for much cheaper, I went back inside, where Will the Manager tried to make me feel like a moron.  “Hey, man, you wouldn’t want us to not tell you about your car’s problems, would you?  We’re legally obligated to let you know what’s wrong with your car.  We could tell you everything’s fine, but you wouldn’t like it when it broke down later.” I didn’t bother to explain my feelings about their “legal obligations.”  Instead, I just shook my head and told him to put my car back together because I was leaving as soon as humanly possible,  Then: “Come on, man, just let us put some pads and shoes on for you — I’ll do it for $120.”  Here, the shrewd reader would ask: what happened to the $99.98 advertised price?  I later learned from Yelp! that you only get that price if you agree to let them assault you with their overpriced services on their initial estimate.  Will the Manager had victimized others in that list of reviews (check these reviews out — no one gives them more than one star!)  Here’s one more detail to show how bad these people are: while I was in the garage, I heard them talking about putting up signs for “Early Bird Specials” to get more customers, as they surely wanted to trick other people into buying their “99.98″ line.

Will tried to tell me that my car was in such bad shape that I wouldn’t even be able to make it to my body shop on South Congress and Woodward.  I told him I’d take the chance.  He told me that it could “go” at any minute.  I half-suspected that these crooks would sabotage my car when they put the wheels back on just to prove Will the Manager right.

When I got to Jose’s place on South Congress, I showed him the “rust” on the side of my car that was so bad I’d need it power-washed (according to Paul at Just Brakes).  Jose wiped a little away and laughed.  The “rust” was brownish pollen from a tree I’d parked under during the last couple of wet days.

Moral of the story: go to a trustworthy mechanic like Jose Salgado (512-736-4795).

In one of the best examples of excellent prosecution, the Travis County District Attorney dismissed drug charges against my 17-year-old client, who was mother to a newborn baby and faced possible deportation to her home country of Honduras.  The story is a heart-warming example of the criminal justice system working correctly, and I’m proud to have a played a role in returning my client to her baby just days before Christmas.

My client conceived her baby when she was just 16.  Since the baby’s father was 19 at the time, the relationship was considered “statutory rape.”  As a result, CPS became involved and forbid her from continuing her relationship with the father.  Still, the father was one of the only people my client could count on to help with important caretaking tasks, and when the baby became sick, she called upon him to drive her to the local CVS to pick up a prescription.  Along the way, the father committed a traffic violation, leading to a police stop.  Unbeknownst to my young client, this guy was a cocaine dealer, and he threw five baggies of cocaine onto my client’s lap as the policeman walked up to the car.  My client panicked, and she stuffed the baggies down her bra to conceal them from the officer.  Regardless, the policeman’s suspicions were aroused, and he ultimately discovered that my client was in possession of the cocaine.

Her crime was a third-degree felony with a penalty range of 2-10 years in prison.  She also faced certain deportation upon a conviction for these charges.  As a result, I advised her that we couldn’t take any plea deal if she wanted to stay in this country with her baby.  Instead, we would have to fight the case, and I told her to prepare herself for a jury trial, which probably would take at least six months to begin.

However, at my client’s second court appearance, I encountered a remarkably reasonable prosecutor who sympathized with my client’s unusual plight.  At first, she offered to reduce the felony charge to a misdemeanor, but I couldn’t accept this deal because any conviction for a drug offense is subject to deportation (unless it’s a one-time conviction for less than 28.5 grams of marijuana).  Although the prosecutor felt like I was asking for a huge concession so early in the case, she decided to do the right thing and dismissed the case.

My client’s now out of jail and back with her baby during these vital, formative days of the child’s life.  In a time when many prosecutors are criticized for seeking convictions rather than justice, I’m proud to report that the Travis County District Attorney did the right thing in this case.  Christmas is the season of giving, and this prosecutor gave my client the greatest gift of all: the freedom to be a mother to her baby.

The first step in changing a culture of silence is to recognize the heroics of the children who report the abuse.  Anderson Cooper has led the way in calling one of Sandusky’s outspoken victims a “hero,” and the media should take a cue from Cooper’s progressive approach.

When a child victim speaks out, it’s completely inappropriate to begin cross-examining the victim about why he or she didn’t report the abuse sooner.  I recall Matt Lauer’s irresponsible interview of the daughter of an Aransas County judge after she released a video of her father’s physically abusive tirade seven years after the incident.  Lauer questioned her like he was a defense attorney attacking a testifying victim.  Instead of praising her for her courage, Lauer wanted to know why it took so long for her to release the footage.  Lauer continually implied that she must have some improper motive.

That’s not the proper way to treat courageous people who report abuse, and Lauer’s irresponsible journalism could discourage other victims from coming forward for fear of being further victimized by a bully interviewer.  In the context of sexual abuse, a child victim must feel overwhelming emotions of humiliation and fear.  To overcome those emotions and identify the perpetrator is such a brave feat that it should be praised rather than immediately questioned.  Bob Costas’ interview with Sandusky revealed that this creepy monster is trying to weasel out of the charges.  To prevent him from walking free, we need more of the victims to publicly stand up and confront their perpetrator.  That’s true bravery that must be celebrated if our culture’s going to wage a winning war against sexual predators.  Let the defense attorneys question the veracity of the victims’ accounts in the courtroom – trust me, these defense attorneys don’t need any free help from the media in disparaging the victims’ accounts.

Although I was never the victim of sexual abuse as a child, there was one incident from my childhood that helps me empathize with the humiliating feelings of such victims.  I attended St. Mark’s, a private, all-boys school in Dallas, and when I was in the 8^th grade, my cruel classmates decided to gang up on me one day by starting a rumor that I’d been “raped by construction workers.” I tried to ignore their taunts at first, but eventually it escalated to everyone asking me if I’d really been raped.  When one of my friends started asking me about it before the start of math class, I snapped.  I bull-rushed him, knocking open a door as I carried the fight outside.  I swung wildly, backing him up into a pole, upon which he hit his head quite hard.  My classmate started crying and became very angry with me, giving me the silent treatment.  I remember school administrators becoming involved, and I don’t think I was on speaking terms with my friend for a week.

The reason I tell that story is that even when rumors about sexual abuse are false, they’re very upsetting to a child, who doesn’t want to be ostracized from his friends.  Now, consider a boy who really has been sexually abused by an adult man.  The humiliation of being raped combines with the fear of being teased for being homosexual within a homophobic  and cruel teenaged world.  For example, one of Sandusky’s victims was ridiculed by his peers for playing a role in legendary coach Joe Paterno’s firing.  The bullying became so hurtful that the boy left school in the middle of his senior year.

I can’t fathom the level of courage that such a child would need to muster in order to publicly expose his abuser.  If the child chooses to speak out, then the last thing he needs is for people to question the truth of his story.  Above all, that child needs the support of his community.

As a society, by praising the victims who speak out, we can make a significant stride towards ferreting out sex offenders before they have a chance to abuse yet another child.  Let’s follow Anderson Cooper’s lead and refer to the brave, outspoken victims by one word: hero.  After all, that’s what they are.

Violet Crown mostly shows documentaries and foreign films, but they also feature the occasional artsy flick.  Shannon and I were thrilled that Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris was playing there, so we ordered tickets on Saturday afternoon.  One of the unique aspects of Violet Crown that you’ll immediately notice when ordering tickets is that seating is reserved.  That means that you get to pick your seats beforehand, which makes it unnecessary to stake out a spot in the auditorium 30+ minutes prior to showtime.

Violet Crown offers reserve seating to encourage patrons to linger in the café/bar area, where they offer an assortment of wines, beers, cocktails, and gourmet-style snacks.  There’s an intimate feel to the dimly-lit café, making the atmosphere more similar to a downtown lounge.  I ordered a cucumber martini, which turned out to be a refreshing concoction of vodka, orange juice, and a dash of St. Germain Elderflower liquer (just enough for a hint of sweetness without entering into the sickening realm of many flavored martini drinks).  Meanwhile, Shannon enjoyed an Argentinean Malbec that suited her mood and tastes perfectly on this night.

For food, we ordered the cheese plate and avocado spring rolls.  The cheese plate featured a generous portion of three selections, accompanied by ground pistachios and honey.  I was very impressed with this plate, as it rivaled something that you could get at a wine bar.  The avocado spring rolls were also very good, with a fresh filling of assorted lettuces, avocado, rice noodles, cucumbers, and shredded carrots.  The accompanying Hoisin-Peanut dipping sauce was very tasty.

By the time we finished these dishes, it was about five minutes before the start of the movie, and that’s when the excellent staff at Violet Crown opens the theater for seating.  I ordered a pint of Real Ale, as both food and beverage can be brought into the theater.  Unlike Alamo Drafthouse, there’s no service inside the theater, so you have to get your snacks beforehand or during the movie.

The actual theaters have only about 50 seats, making for an intimate setting.  The first row actually has the most prized seating, with oversized chairs and ottomans for leg rests.  We opted for the second row when I ordered tickets, and I think that’s the best view since you still have to look up when you’re in the first row.  All seats are leather and very comfortable, with swiveling tables to sit your drinks on.

Midnight in Paris was an excellent choice for our first time at Violet Crown, as star Owen Wilson captured Woody Allen’s personality in this witty, historical, comedy-fantasy about a writer searching for himself in his beloved Paris.

Afterwards, Shannon and I were in great spirits as we made the short stroll to Momo’s for the music show.  There was definitely a market for a downtown movie spot, and Violet Crown’s elegant, unique style fits perfectly within Austin’s entertainment district.

Located at the base of the Austonian on 2^nd and Congress streets downtown, the restaurant is dimly lit and exudes a luxurious air, replete with uniquely designed chandeliers decorating the ceiling.  Also, there’s definitely an obsequious note to the service, reminding me more of a fine-dining establishment in Dallas or Houston, as opposed to the usual feel of Austin, where there’s a chummy camaraderie to the waiter/customer relationship at places like Wink and Trace.  Although our server did a flawless job all night, there was an overall stiffness to his delivery.  I prefer a more vibrant atmosphere, as if both employees and patrons are joining together in celebrating the best of wine and food.

For our wine selection, I chose the 2007 Cafaro merlot, which featured initial notes of berries with a smooth, velvety texture, and an earthy spice at the finish.  The wine held up very well to our various dishes while still being affordable.  As a side note on price, despite a 22 page wine list, less than half are under $100.  Although I love wine, I think that three-digits is too much to spend on a bottle, and that’s another reason why I’ve always touted Wink, whose wine sommelier has made an art of finding great wines at bargain prices.

Like the wine list at Congress, the food’s not cheap either.  The lowest-priced option is the three-course, prix-fixe menu, which is $75 per person.  There’s also a seven-course tasting menu option at $115, but that seemed a little excessive.

Prior to the first course, we received a complimentary amuse bouche; on this night, it was a cup of deilcious pea custard with a foamed egg-white topping.  It thoroughly cleansed my palate and had me ready for my first course — the beef tartare.

Accompanied by two fried oysters, the square-shaped tartare had a fantastically meaty yet smooth flavor.  Meanwhile, Shannon opted for the wild arugula salad.  Although the arugula, beets, and fig were fresh and delectable, I thought that there were too few of these items, in favor of a glob of mozzarella-and-cream “burrata” in the center of her plate.  The cheesy burrata made the salad heavier than what Shannon and I had expected.

For the mid-course, I chose the garlic-and-chive potato gnocchi.  This was probably my favorite dish of the night, as the pillowy pasta nuggets were perfectly complemented by the yolk of a quail egg and smoky flavor of the accompanying morsel of braised oxtail.  Featuring this confluence of tastes, the gnocchi was the most original dish of the night.

Shannon chose the lobster bisque, which I could not sample due to an allergy.  The presentation was excellent, though, as the dish was served with a piece of fresh lobster and sweet jam at the bottom, and the waiter poured the bisque into the bowl tableside.  Shannon thoroughly enjoyed the bisque, although she quickly became full as her first two courses turned out to be a bit creamier than anticipated.

For the third course, Shannon enjoyed the snapper.  It was sautéed and flavorful, although I didn’t feel it had the “special” quality that I expected from a restaurant that prides itself on artistic expression.

My flash-seared tuna was a big disappointment, as the sushi-grade fish tasted relatively bland, lacking a defining imprint from the kitchen.  I should leave the sushi to Uchi and Uchiko.

For dessert, we opted for the three-course dessert tasting.  The first course was a small bowl of grapefruit sorbet, which was accompanied with Pop Rock candy.  The sweet, hard candy melded wonderfully with the tart flavor of the grapefruit, and it was fun to feel the nostalgia of Pop Rocks fizzing in our mouths.  Next came the sweet-potato beignets, which were bite-sized and complemented with salted butter ice cream, pecan brittle, and a meringue.

Finally, the chocolate terrine was a great way to end the meal, as the dark chocolate shell was filled with a creamy white chocolate and accented with raspberry sauce.

Overall, Shannon and I had a wonderful time at Congress, although some of the dishes were a bit disappointing considering our high expectations.  Sadly, the steep price will probably deter me from dining there again, as I’ve had better experiences at other area restaurants for about 2/3 of what I spent at Congress.

On tour promoting their recently-released album, Gimme Some, the band rocked out with a healthy mix of new and old music. Chris and I purchased their new CD a couple of weeks ago, and although we enjoyed it from the start, we found that after hearing the songs performed live, the album now deserves a deeper level of respect as the songs leap from the CD, reminding us of our stellar night at Antone’s.

While their musical quality proved to be out of this world, what made the night so special was the small band’s big, warm personality.  A little on the goofy side, all of the members had an endearing quality, as if they were still so excited and appreciative that they’d really made it as musicians. Their effervescent energy and enthusiasm was contagious and their side commentary genuine and humorous. For instance, the band sighed at how they can’t eat barbeque anymore because they are trying to save the world and eat more vegetables and fish. (They also happened to mention that they enjoyed Austin’s amazing fish options, which we assume was a shout-out to Uchi!) Even more lovable, the lead singer came out twice into the audience and high-fived almost everyone at the venue, not to mention that the band returned to the stage for two hearty encores! One of my favorite memories from the show is when the lead singer pulled out a harmonica and started playing a Swedish version of Texas blues, paying tribute to the fact that he is in a blues mecca at Antone’s.

What an amazing show with amazing friends – I recommend this band live and on CD to anyone and everyone!!!

Check out this cute music video from their famous hit, Young Folks:

And so things went. Annie recently moved up to New York and is presently working as a marketing specialist while also reconnecting to her childhood love of music. She plays the violin and sings in a few projects around town, this one being the “split” between Austin-based band, Grandchild, and singer-songwriter, Walker Lukens. Being a folk music lover, I can’t help but love the name of their show and EP album, Are We Gunna Folk or Duet?

Thrilled to see my gal in action, Chris and I couldn’t wait to attend their show last Monday night, taking place at a dimly lit, velvety venue owned by Spiderhouse called United States Art Authority. Opening up the performance was the gifted bluegrass band, Whiskey Shivers. Next up was Annie and her assortment of musical members, all harmonizing together, beyond just vocally, to create a seemingly effortless illustration of folky tunes at their best.  Chris and I both enjoyed the buoyant, creative songs and couldn’t help but wiggle our agreeing bodies to the beat.

Witnessing Annie pursuing her passions was incredibly inspiring, as she has somehow managed to juggle her artistic life with an ambitious career in her dream city. I can only hope she tours again soon, as I encourage everyone to check out this talented crop of ripening musicians.

Most of the seating at Contigo is outside, where the magnificent, wooded, dog-friendly patio features plenty of picnic-style tables.  The place is perfect for large groups to come for happy hour to enjoy the great weather and then linger over the excellent cocktails and delicious culinary creations.

For drinks, Contigo offers an assortment of cocktails and draft beers.  Shannon and Thomas each started with an El Pepino, which combined tequila, cucumber water, mint, and lime.  The end result was a refreshing treat that resembled a mojito — only better!  Meanwhile, I opted for the Contigo Ranch Swizzle, which featured tequila, mescal, tangerine, lime, and soda.  Although I enjoyed this concoction, whose flavor had hints of smokiness (from the mescal), El Pepino was the superior cocktail.  Later on, I ordered an El Jefe (recommended by JT).  The stiffness of the bourbon was counterbalanced by lemon and ginger brew, along with a fresh luxardo marischino cherry.

In terms of food, Wisehart designed a menu of small plates that accentuate the variety of beverages.  The food is also locally sourced, which seems to be part of an encouraging trend during these environmentally-conscious times.  Although Contigo will definitely attract groups who linger over their drinks, the outstanding food guarantees that you won’t have to go elsewhere to fill up.

We started with some bar-menu items like the olives and pickled beets.  Both were the caliber of a gourmet restaurant, as the olives sat in an oil that had been dressed up with peppery spices, while the beets were accompanied by a creamy white sauce called grabiche.  Although there aren’t any fish items on the regular menu, there’s a rotating pesce option, which happened to be a shrimp dish on this night.  The shrimp were served in a small skillet with a creamy broth that begged to be sopped up with the fresh bread that came with the plate.  We also thoroughly enjoyed the Texas okra, which were grilled and served with walnuts and cherry tomatoes.

As my main dish, I opted for the daily sausage, which is made in-house.  I can’t remember what type of sausage they served on this Sunday, but it changes everyday.  The sausage sat on a baguette and was served with house-made mustard and sauerkraut.  The sauerkraut was outstanding.  Fries also come with this dish, and they were a perfect crispness.  I didn’t even need ketchup.  Meanwhile, Shannon opted for the grilled cheese, which proved to be a decadent delight, as the thick brioche enveloped a heaping portion of creamy, artisanal cheeses.

I can’t say enough good things about Contigo, and it’s likely going to become a regular hangout on Fridays after work.  With delicious cocktails, a wide-selection of microbrews, and a variety of plates to keep our tummies full, it’s a welcome addition to the Central Austin dining landscape — with the added bonus that you don’t have to compete with downtown traffic to get there.

It’s been a crazy week since we’ve been back from our vacation in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, yet our thoughts still cannot stop lingering back to the mountains. The trip to Wyoming (and a small sliver of Montana!) ended up being more than just one of transportation of the body, but also a rejuvenation of the soul. If you do it right, we’d wholeheartedly recommend the experience to anyone seeking the majestic beauty and chaotic harmony of nature. Below is a log we kept of our experiences each day. We hope this will help to inform others wishing to make a similar voyage as well as aid us in keeping these cherished memories alive forever! Enjoy!

Day 1- Entering Jackson Hole, Wyoming

When our plane finally landed on the grounds of Jackson Hole, we felt a sense of relief, as flying into the area is one of the most dangerous spots for airplanes to land, considering the jagged, steep Tetons that surround the area.  We then hopped on a transportation shuttle into the darling town of Jackson, Wyoming where we picked up our rental car and continued on to our first destination: The Grand Teton National Park.

As we drove into the park, our eyes first awed at the God-like presence of the Teton Mountain Range and then drifted down to the ever-growing heaping layers of snow. We were shocked to see that quilt-like sheets of snow blanketed everything in the park but the

View of Jackson Lake from Signal Mountain Lodge

shoveled road. When we talked to the woman at the registration desk of our hotel, the Signal Mountain Lodge, we learned that this last winter’s snow was record-breaking, and it was the first time in the woman’s fifteen years of living here that the major lakes were still frozen this late in the year. Several feet of snow forced most of the major hiking trails to be closed, and at first we felt a surge of disappointment about our trip. We then decided to take our “you-just-gotta-go-with-it” vacation attitude, and ended up finding our own, creative trails that added up to a splendid experience. In fact, as if welcoming our approach, singing robins and an impressive female moose revealed themselves to us on our first, unmarked walk up a small mountain in the Taggart Lake area.

View from inside the Chapel of the Transfiguration

On our first day, we also came across the darling Chapel of Transfiguration, walked alongside the Snake River, sipped house specialty blackberry margaritas and local Snake River Pale Ale beer, and eventually fell asleep in our quaint log cabin overlooking Jackson Lake. After learning about how wind energy powers the Signal Mountain Lodge and their initiative to offer sustainable food options, our approval of the place skyrocketed even further.

Day 2 – In Grand Teton National Park

Today we awoke cuddling tightly to a chilly, crisp morning. We took a scenic guided river ride down the tranquil Snake River, seeing one lone buffalo, a mama and baby moose, a heard of female elk, a bald eagle near her nest, and several other species of birds. The river ride ended up being a great idea on Chris’ part, as our guide, Mark, offered us several wildlife and hiking suggestions, despite the heavy snow. In addition, floating down the river offered us a unique way to witness the picturesque backdrop.  Mark was an excellent guide as he knew everything one could know about history, geology, geography, animals, climate, and trivia of the area.

After a needed nap and snack, we decided to attempt the Taggart Lake Trail, as we overheard that its snow level was more manageable for hiking. The hike ended up being dreamlike, as we were surrounded by beautiful brooks, breathtaking views, heaps of snow, and a warm, sunny sky. We eventually arrived at Bradley Lake and Taggart Lake, both gently beginning to unthaw, as if having a difficult time waking up from a long slumber. We managed to lose our way coming back, but thanks to Chris’ iPhone compass, we made it safely home in one piece.

Not quite finished with the day, we decided to head out to Schwabacher Landing, an area our guide advised us to check for wildlife sightings, particularly beavers. We first came across a female moose nestled next to a pond, seemingly deep in a restful meditation. Chris

A moose rests in the distance

then noticed a heard of elk near the river, and we decided to go off trail to venture closer. Very exhilarating, but Shannon couldn’t help but be somewhat fearful, as we were in bear territory. After a few peaceful moments soaking up the elk, we continued on until we came across a wooded area with damp ground overlooking a pond full of clear signs of beaver work! We crouched down and patiently waited for a sighting, when we heard a loud, thumping sound. Chris inspected the scene, and found a woodpecker deep at work. After a great camera shot, we set our eyes back to the giant pile of logs until we eventually saw a little beaver hunting for dinner.

Once back at Signal Mountain Lodge, we threw on some jeans and head up to the casual Trapper Grill for dinner, where we indulged in delicious elk chili and trout cakes. We ended the night feeling very sleepy due to a full day, but our hearts were deeply thankful for the perfect weather and amazing experiences.

Day 3 – In Grand Teton National Park

Today we woke up at 5:30am to catch the sunrise at Jackson Lake Dam. Due to a cloudy morning, we didn’t get the view we’d hoped for, but we enjoyed the pleasant surprise of two badgers hanging near the icy water. We then returned to our cabin for a lazy morning followed by a yummy breakfast of granola and the “eye opener” skillet at The Trapper Grill.

View of the Snake River from the Signal Mountain Summit

Around midday, we decided to hike up to the Signal Mountain Summit. The snow had closed down the actual hiking trail, but the park had paved a road up to the top, so thanks to a tip from some locals, we decided to just walk up the road. After a couple of hours of walking what seemed like straight up, we came to an incredible, panoramic view of the Grand Tetons and the still wintery beauty of the Snake River. Although the enchantment of the mountain made the hike well worth it, we greatly look forward to returning another year when we can leave the asphalt behind and hit the true trail.

With tired bodies, we decided to spend the evening driving out to Antelope Flats where we saw a family of deer and herds of elk and buffalo. Even more spectacular, a gorgeous, brownish silver fox leaped onto the road and pranced around our car, offering us a great view of the stunning creature. He even lifted his leg on a sign to pee, letting us know his gender and turf. On our drive back our great team work was put to a test, as a harrowing snowstorm fell upon us. Chris commented that he now realized that his defensive driving course was correct when stating not to use high beams or brights in the snow.  Once finally back at our lodge, we celebrated our safety with blackberry margaritas and hot toddies!

Day 4 – Headed to Yellowstone National Park

We said an early goodbye to The Grand Tetons as we drove north into Yellowstone National Park. On our drive in we stopped at The West Thumb area, where various hot springs and the Yellowstone Lake surrounded us. We quickly learned that Yellowstone draws in a lot more tourists at the main attractions.  All of the major areas, such as The West Thumb, have confining boardwalks built around them so that all walking levels (including individuals in wheelchairs) can view the sights. Although we both think it’s wonderful that springs are accessible to all, our most enjoyable moments in Yellowstone were when we hit the hiking trails away from the crowds and could soak up the park on our own terms.

As we continued driving, we made several stops for breathtaking views, volatile geysers, sulfur springs, and buffalo sightings ─ including plenty of adorable calves! As we met more and more buffalo, they let us know how things worked ─ we were their guests in the park, and if they wanted to cross the road or take over a parking lot, it was their right. Particularly when it came to keeping their young safe, the mamas assumed the roles of buff body guards protecting their precious starlets.

Our next major stop was at The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. We walked to Artist Point and peaked down into the stunning crevices of the canyon and breathed in the sight of the magnificent waterfall.  Unfortunately all of the main trails were packed with snow in this area, so we ended up venturing off on a little backcountry trail. Shannon was extremely weary, as we were in “bear country”, but we used our “Be Bear Aware” skills to keep safe. We followed a steamy sulfur brook upstream until we found an unmarked geyser making all of sorts whooshing and gurgling sounds, seemingly about to blow. Needless to say, our hearts were pumping.

Once securely back in our SUV, we drove onward to the Norris Geysers, an area in West Central Yellowstone. Less crowded than the West Thumb area, we also felt like the sights were more spectacular and with greater descriptions, such as of the “Steamboat Geyser” and the “Porkchop Geyser.” Here, we felt as if we were walking into “the land before time” and a dinosaur might pop out at any moment.

Ready to arrive at our final destination, we continued onward through Madison down to Old Faithful. The drive from Norris to Madison is particularly noteworthy, as the road carves through lush hills and exposes flowing rivers, one of our favorites being the Gibbon River.

When we finally arrived at the Old Faithful Inn, we were awed by its gargantuan size, elaborate woodwork, and European-design influence. Known as one of the world’s largest log lodges, we gawked at the hustle and bustle in the open, wooded center – much different than our lone cabin life. Although we were a little nervous since we booked the least expensive room with shared hallway bathrooms, the charming room turned out to be just right, with a nice queen bed, a sink and mirror, and rustic decorations. We also applauded our hotel’s initiative to be as eco-friendly and self-sustainable as possible ─ a trend we were pleased to notice throughout the parks.

For dinner we walked over across the street to the Old Faithful Snow Lodge (a different hotel very nearby) for dinner at their acclaimed Obsidian Room. Although our rich conversation made the evening memorable, the food itself was pretty disappointing, not to mention the red wine was fizzy.

Yet, we still felt thankful to walk back to our lodge under a sea of bright stars, anxious to hit the hay and for tomorrow to arrive!

Day 5 – In Yellowstone National Park

Eager to jump start our day, we woke up early, grabbed breakfast, and headed north toward the Mammoth Hot Springs area. On our way, we halted to a stop as we noticed a line of cars not moving and heads craning out of their rolled-down car windows. We quickly spotted the major attraction – a grizzly bear was galloping full speed up and across the adjacent mountainside. I guess Yogi Bear does live in the park!

Golden Gate Bridge of Yellowstone

On our drive up, we also stopped to take in the park’s Golden Gate Bridge, a spectacular waterfall, scenic overlooks, and the Mosaic Forest (which earned its name for its different tree colors since trees vary in age due to forest fires).

Once at Mammoth Hot Springs, we appreciated that the ability to see tiny bits of microorganisms and communities in the floors of the hot springs made this area

Microorganisms leave their impressions in Mammoth Hot Springs

particularly unique. In addition, we enjoyed the view, as we felt as if we had stepped into a rugged version of the hills in The Sound of Music, except replacing singing children were buffalo, elk, and deer.

After a tasty lunch of smoked trout at the Mammoth Hotel dining room, we decided to talk with the park rangers about the best hiking in the area. Despite being in the most Northwest corner of the park, the Mammoth area is at a lower elevation, so thankfully the area was snow-free for the most part. Disappointed that the major trails were closed off due to a mother back bear and her cubs claiming the area, we took the ranger’s advice to try out the Rescue Creek Trail, an area technically in the most southwestern sliver of Montana. The trail was wide open, winding between massive hills and a beautiful river. We ran into a group of young guys who encouraged us to hike off trail up into the hills themselves, as they had come across loads of wildlife. Taking their advice, we veered off trail on a very steep and fast elevation climb, deep into the never-ending and awe-inspiring hills. As soon as we’d triumphantly make it to the top of one, sure that this was the very peak, we’d see just over yonder one a little higher. And so our hike went, up and on. We came across bighorn sheep and pronghorns, all grazing along the almost vertical mountainside. One of our favorite moments of the trip was taking a break on top of one of the highest hills and rewarding ourselves with fresh fruit and big, heaping gulps of crisp mountain air. We even saw a brightly colored blue bird, known in the area as the first sign of spring.

On our journey upward bound, we observed a solitary buffalo who seemed to be about to give birth, as she hawked her eyes at us every way we went while she continuously changed positions, seemingly trying to find a place of comfort. She managed to stand up aggressively when we saw a very interested coyote come near her area, investigating the relative fragility of her current state.

After about three hours of summit climbing, we noticed the sky fading gray, and we decided with no trees by our side, it may be smart to begin descending back to the original trail. On our way we enjoyed the company of ground squirrels dancing between their gaping holes into the earth.

When we finally made it back to our SUV, we felt exhausted and looked forward to our drive into Lamar Valley, known as the “Serengeti of Yellowstone” due its rich wildlife scenes and a supposed wolf hotspot.  Located east of Mammoth Hot Springs, the drive along the northern sector of the park was yet another one of dazzling beauty. Although we didn’t spot any animals other than buffalo and elk, the drive through the Lamar Valley area was well worth it just for the heavenly landscape views of mountains, lakes, and green forests.

After a long, picturesque drive back to Old Faithful, full of more buffalo and a group of three coyotes leaping in front of our car, we made it back for dinner. We showered quickly and decided to enjoy the hotel’s cocktail lounge, known as the The Bear Pit. With the local Moose Drool draft beer, smoked salmon, and trout cakes in our bellies and park adventures in our minds, we fell asleep two truly happy people.

Day 6 – In Yellowstone National Park

Considering our lodge was situated right next to the famous Old Faithful geyser, one of the only predictable geysers in the park, we figured it was finally time we watched it erupt. Going off approximately every 90 minutes, we had conveniently awoken at just the right time to catch a good glimpse of a 70 feet, gravity-defying eruption straight into the air!

Wanting to catch an even better sight of this wonder, we decided to hike up Observation Trail where the top allows for a perfect bird’s eye view of the Old Faithful geyser. On our walk we came across a snake, bear paw prints, and friendly chipmunks. From the top of the hike, we could see all of the Old Faithful Inn and surrounding geysers. Watching the Old Faithful geyser erupt from this high peak was a definite highlight of the trip.

Old Faithful erupts, with the eponymous inn featured in the background

Today was the coldest and windiest day of all, so weren’t quite as up for intense hiking. Even if we were, the park rangers had closed off all local trails due to bear sightings, which was somewhat frustrating as we learned that the rangers tended to err very conservatively when it comes to closing trails. We then spent the day leisurely checking out the rest of the geysers near Old Faithful and then the Midway Geyser Basin, which has one of the largest hot springs in the world. Here, the scenery was so steamy and barren, we felt as if we were walking into the apocalypse.

For dinner, we couldn’t help but return to The Bear Pit for more Moose Drool, as this lounge seemed to be the best dining option in the area. Afterward, we grabbed a quilt and wrapped ourselves up in rocking chairs on the hotel’s interior balcony as we peered down into the lodge and listened to the live pianist playing soothing, classic melodies. Making the evening even cozier, Chris ordered us some delicious scotch to help us drink in the magical moment.

Day 7 – Headed Back to Texas

We were sad to leave, as every day in the park had its own special set of experiences, and we knew more days would bring even more. However, obligations reminded us that we had to return home, as vacations do tend to end, but we now have found a place we can’t wait to revisit. We drove back through both parks to arrive in Jackson, and on our way we catalogued all of our memories as we reflected on the wonder of the trip.

This trip proved to be an invigorating experience, one I’d recommend to anyone who thrives in a natural setting. Wyoming will always live in our hearts, and we cannot wait to head back again!

More Specific Tips for Traveling to the Area:

Food and Dining

As an aside regarding the overall dining in the area, we noticed that the “fine dining” tends to be overpriced for the mediocre quality of the fare. There’s very little competition, so the hotels don’t seem to have much incentive to invest in high-end chefs or kitchens.  That’s why it’s important to limit yourself to the casual dining spots, when you can find them.

At the Signal Mountain Lodge, we loved The Trapper Grill, which featured a wide variety of appetizers, salads, soups, sandwiches, entrée plates, and desserts.  The Grill’s neighbor, a “fine dining” restaurant called Peaks, had a more limited menu, with dressed-up items like Bison Bourgignone.  But the two restaurants share the same kitchen, and the overall execution at Peaks just felt a little off, despite the prices being relatively high.

The same is true in Yellowstone, except the alternative options to the “fine dining” were cafeterias or snack bars with pre-packaged sandwiches. The lack of a reliable, casual dining experience was a pretty glaring deficiency.  One suggestion is to get a cabin with a kitchen if you’re traveling with a larger group of people, as you could save a lot of money by buying groceries and cooking your own meals.

Hiking Safety

The park rangers seemed very conservative about closing trails to the public whenever there was a bear sighting in the area.  We would have liked to have more information about the reasons for closing each trail.  For example, was a mother protecting her cubs somewhere nearby?  We most appreciated the ranger in Mammoth who gave us precise information about why a particular trail was closed.

Unfortunately, the ranger was less helpful in the Old Faithful area, and we were left to guess about the relative safety of venturing on closed trails.  Since we didn’t have “bear spray” (a higher-powered version of the self-defense weapon, as regular pepper spray apparently just annoys the bears), we decided that we couldn’t take the risk.  So, my advice is that if you’re planning on hiking in Wyoming, bring some bear spray with you so that you don’t have to feel like you’re at the mercy of the rangers’ overly cautious tendencies.  Without bear spray, you have no business going on any trail that’s closed due to bear activity.  It’s quite pricey ($45) and a bit bulky when you buy it at a store in Yellowstone, but we’re looking into finding some less expensive versions that will fit in one of my pant pockets.